Thursday 20 September 2012

Buying a diamond engagement ring: the 4Cs

This is what a 0.3ct, round brilliant, H, SI1, 'excellent' cut
diamond looks like

If you've been researching buying a diamond engagement ring, you may have come across the term 'the 4 Cs'.


But what exactly are they?

Well this catchy little phrase stands for Carat, Clarity, Colour and Cut. However, as I learnt, while they all begin with the letter 'C', this certainly does not mean they are all equal. They can also all have a dramatic effect on the price of the stone, so it pays to know which of them is the most important.

Carat

This is probably the thing with which the majority of buyers are most concerned – I know I was initially.

'Carat' refers to the weight of the stone; so quite simply, the bigger the number, the larger the rock. And for some people, getting their hands on a gem that hits the magic 1ct mark becomes something of an obsession.

My jeweller told me that one of his other clients had paid hundreds more than he could have on a slightly smaller 0.95ct diamond, just so he could have the pleasure of telling people it was 1ct in size.

As well as being unnecessarily expensive, such stones will also appear very large on your fiancée's hand and she might actually feel more comfortable with something a little less ostentatious.

I got my fiancée a 0.3ct diamond (anything smaller and I couldn't have got a certified stone) and, despite a few concerns, was actually pleasantly surprised at just how big it appeared once it was her finger.

Overall, my best piece of advice is not to get caught up on the numbers – think instead about matching the diamond to your girlfriend. This also makes sense financially, as for every 0.1ct you add, the price increases significantly.

Clarity

Clarity refers to how perfect the diamond is. However, unlike carat and cut, which are in the hands of the craftsmen, clarity and colour are determined by Mother Nature.

The clarity rating of a diamond is related to the number and size of the 'inclusions' present inside it. When viewed through a microscope – I recommend trying this at your jewellers – these inclusions appear as black specs or foggy patches. These are caused by crystals or cracks inside the diamond.

You may have guessed that anything which you need a microscope to see is not really something to be too concerned about and you certainly don't need to waste your money buying a flawless gem (unless you want to brag about it). In fact, anything better than 'slightly included 1' (SI1) and you should be fine. 'Very slightly included' (VS) and you're laughing.


Colour

As mentioned above, this is another element about which nature decides. Strangely with diamonds, both ends of the scale demand high prices.

So although colourless diamonds fetch mega bucks, very strongly coloured diamonds ('fancy' diamonds) can also be highly sought after. Somewhere in between are the kinds of stones you will find in most jewellery shops.

Colour has a strange grading system, no doubt designed to bamboozle the average consumer, which is based on most of the alphabet: 'D' meaning colourless, down to 'Z' with a yellow tinge. Where A to C went is anyone's guess.

But again, as with clarity, perfection is not needed here and anything graded 'H' or better should not appear yellow to the naked eye. This is another area where you can easily waste hundreds of pounds on something that doesn't really make a visible difference.

Cut

This, quite obviously, refers to the process of taking the raw material that came from the ground and turning it into a perfectly shaped stone. The quality of the cut – the way in which the individual facets of the diamond have been angled – is by far the most important of the 4Cs, as it has the biggest influence over how well the gem will catch the light.

The word 'cut' might also be used to refer to the shape of the diamond. I went for a round brilliant style, but there are many others, including emerald, which is a rectangular shaped cut.

Your jeweller may also tempt you with something called 'hearts and arrows'. This is where the diamond has been cut so precisely that, when seen through a special viewer, a perfect circle of hearts is created on one side of the diamond and a circle of arrows is created on the other.

It looks very cool (like a natural kaleidoscope) and I admittedly did get caught up in the romanticism of it all. However, once the diamond was actually set in the ring I could no longer see this special effect and only assure my fiancée it was there – it's all a bit gimmicky really.

However, this being said, the ring does sparkle beautifully and it was well worth spending the extra to get an 'excellent' cut and polish.

Conclusion

The 4Cs are by no means all equal – prioritise the right elements and you can easily get a gorgeous diamond that's just right for your girlfriend but within your budget. 

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